Simple Joys and Beautiful Views
I lived in Abruzzo, a mountainous and undiscovered region in Italy, for ten years and though I didn’t actually live in Sulmona, I lived close by in a hilltop village. Sulmona was my go to hub for all essentials for everyday life and living here felt like being in a comfortable, old Italian village where life is calm and beautiful.
From the Apennine Mountains which surround the town and offer the most stunning views, to the history, the ancient buildings, narrow cobblestoned streets – the past envelopes you like a warm hug. It really does! In winter, the mountains are covered in a thick layer of snow, it also snows in the town. In spring and summer, almond blossoms are everywhere, as are the balconies that overflow with petunias and geraniums. Autumn brings all the colours, reds, golds, oranges to the forests surrounding the district. The colours need to be seen to be believed
The main square, Piazza Garibaldi, is one big, open space where locals gather for markets and festivals. The colourful markets are held every Wednesday and Saturday morning, offering a huge variety of fresh fruit and vegetables, clothing, household wares and plants for the garden. The food brings your senses to the point of overload, rotisserie chickens, cooking on a wood fired spit, cheeses from every part of the region and from all over Italy, buns stuffed full of thick sliced BBQed pork called porchetta. The list goes on and it’s one of the things I miss most about living in Italy.
Sulmona is famous for its confetti, colorful sugar-coated almonds. Corso Ovidio, the main street, has many shops selling these treats. The Pelino Museum shows how confetti is made and shares its history.
Living here means being part of a close community that loves tradition. The people are friendly and welcoming. One popular event is La Giostra Cavalleresca, held in July. It’s a feast for the eyes. A medieval jousting tournament in the summer. It turns the town into a lively festival that attracts visitors from all over the world.
Leaving a Lasting Impression
Another import festival/event is at Easter time when one of the most unique and touching Easter events in Italy is the “Madonna che scappa di Sulmona” (Running Madonna of Sulmona), a great opportunity to spend Easter in this area and take part in a truly moving ritual.
For outdoor lovers, Sulmona is perfect. The nearby Maiella National Park offers great hiking and biking trails and is home to many wild animals. In winter, you can enjoy skiing and snowboarding at Roccaraso, a nearby resort.
Dining in Sulmona is a delightful experience that celebrates the region’s rich culinary heritage, offering a blend of traditional flavors, fresh local ingredients, and a warm, inviting atmosphere. One of our faves was arrosticini, skewers of lamb cooked over a fire, or ravioli with fungi sauce. There are too many to add here.
The restaurants we frequented the most were:
Restaurant Il Vecchio Muro. Traditional Abruzzese cuisine, emphasizing fresh, local ingredients and authentic flavours. Il Vecchio Muro is a beloved dining spot in Sulmona, known for its warm atmosphere and exceptional dishes that showcase the region’s culinary heritage. Locals eat here. Especially beautiful during summer when you can eat on the terraces.
Ristorante Clemente, owned by Chef Clemente Maiorano. George Clooney frequented this restaurant during his time in Sulmona while filming “The American.” Chef Maiorano is renowned for his exquisite interpretations of traditional Abruzzese dishes, combining fresh, local ingredients with culinary finesse to create a memorable dining experience. Ristorante Clemente is a beloved spot for both locals and visitors, celebrated for its warm ambiance and outstanding cuisine. I do notice however, the reviews are mixed, so go with an open mind.
Then in the country, a few kms from Sulmona, is the family run Locanda Dell’Asino D’Oro. A great place to visit and to see the gorgeous donkeys, to dine and they also have accommodation at reasonable prices.
Up the road from there is La Trota. Another family run restaurant. Homely atmosphere and very reasonable prices.
In this area, dining is more than just a meal; it’s an experience that celebrates the region’s rich culinary heritage. Whether you’re savouring a traditional dish at a local trattoria or exploring the vineyards and wineries, the flavours of Sulmona are sure to leave a lasting impression.
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When it comes to wines, Sulmona and the surrounding areas are home to some excellent wineries that offer a true taste of Abruzzo’s winemaking traditions. One notable winery is Cantina Zaccagnini, located a short drive from Sulmona. This family-owned winery is renowned for its Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, a full-bodied red wine with notes of cherry, plum, and spice. A visit to Cantina Zaccagnini offers not only a chance to taste their exceptional wines but also a picturesque tour of their vineyards and cellars. Did I mention their love of art? From the sculptured art scattered around the property to the artworks inside the buildings. Amazing!
Another excellent winery and personal friends of ours is Carlo and his family at Cantina Margiotta. It is located a few kms from Sulmona near Pratola Peligna in the Majella national park, the heart of Abruzzo, the “valley vineyard” described by Ovid in the Amores (43 BC-18 AD), an area rich in history and traditions, which has always been devoted to viticulture. A visit offers a wonderful opportunity to learn about the winemaking process and enjoy the beautiful landscape that surrounds the vineyards.
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In Sulmona, life is about enjoying each moment. Whether you’re walking through the historic centre, joining a festival, or just enjoying the beautiful surroundings, Sulmona offers a fulfilling life. It’s a place where the past and present come together, creating a special charm that makes you feel right at home. I could wax lyrical about the wonders of this place. I am planning to take a small tour, of around ten people in early September 2025. To go on the waiting list fill in the form on our contact page.
To visit this region of Italy, fly to Rome, you can get some good car rental deals at Discovery Cars
Travel to Sulmona on the fabulous auto strada. It’s a very easy 90 minute drive.
I recommend to stay at Sei Stella Bed and Breakfast. It is right in the middle of town and the owners are just lovely: Sei Stella Bed and Breakfast
Another recommendation is: La Locanda di Gino
Images from the region
